Mt. Rigi — Cogwheel to the clouds

Setting

Rigi Kulm

Mt. Rigi Massif, Central Switzerland

Spring afternoon

47.05662ºN, 8.48545ºE

Observation

The lake is calm as the ferry coasts across Lake Lucerne toward Vitznau. The air is fresh and crisp from the upper deck of the ferry boat. As the boat cruises, the water transitions from a shade of green to a deep blue hue. The city behind fades into the distance. 

Smaller vessels dot the lake. Some are personal watercraft. Others move slowly near the shoreline where fishermen drift across the water. 

Lush green hillsides rise from the lake in every direction. Mountains rise sharply beyond the shoreline villages. Their snow covered peaks are visible on occasion in between the low hanging clouds. 

After a couple of short stops the ferry arrives in Vitznau with Mt. Rigi towering above. The bright red Rigi Bahn cogwheel train waits only steps from the dock. Its departure feels immediate. 

The swiss village below disappears as the train ascends. The lake expands below, held between mountains rising from the shoreline before disappearing again into cloud. The grinding & clicking sound is dominant with the occasional sound of cowbells while passing the grazing cows on the precipitous green hillsides.

 The incline is steep as demonstrated by the vertical pines contrasted with the angle of the tracks. The higher the ascent, the closer the clouds become. As the summit station comes into view, the clouds occupy much of the landscape.

Moment

What should have been a panoramic vantage point is sporadically engulfed in clouds. Standing on the pedestrian path heading toward the summit, the clouds above are dense and seem to be hovering. The summit is not even visible. There is no way of determining how far one would even have to hike or how difficult the climb may be. And to what end? 

Continuing upward no longer seems likely to reveal more of the landscape.

There does not seem to be a reason to continue. 

The valley and the lake below are at least intermittently visible from an adjacent gravel pathway. These glimpses below are the only windows that offer an understanding of the true scale of the environment. 

The gravel crunches underfoot while walking along the dandelion filled grasslands near the station. Up ahead near the top of the hill sits a small church. It offers a place to pause before returning toward the station. 

 The dampness the clouds bring makes the chill bite harder while standing still. It’s not necessary to enter the church to find solitude here. The clouds simply act as a quiet blanket.

Reflection

Higher ground does not always bring greater visibility.